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Airsoft Alaska • View topic - Polarstar Fusion Engine

Polarstar Fusion Engine

New product announcements, cool stuff you've found

Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby Baronvonsmooch » Mon Sep 26, 2011 3:51 am



The above link has the best review I have seen for the new Polarstar Fusion Engine that I have found so far. I truly think its a remarkable concept, and it is an entirely new evolution of the Classic Airsoft systems like the Sun Project AR platforms and the Escort MP5s and M60s.

I may convert one or two of my rifles over to this system depending on how much I like it. The pure reliability and repeatability with this system (especially with the low threat of cold weather damage and easy upkeep) make this entirely worth it in my eyes.
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby GoodasDead » Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:58 am

I've been looking into their fusion engine for a while now, I'm thinking that I'll sell off my BAR and and get one.
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby Kyle » Mon Oct 31, 2011 4:20 pm

AirsoftFix is an official PolarStar dealer, hit us up if you want to get on the list for a Fusion Engine or a complete gun!

PolarStar is backed up about 1-2months right now, but if you get in touch with me, we can get you on the waiting list now, so you can get a setup ASAP. So far I have 3 people on the list for Fusion Engines/guns.

AirsoftFix is also working on finding a good supply for tanks, and we're researching what it would take to get setup to do HPA fills properly in the shop.

If anyone is interested, contact AirsoftFix at 907-222-6349, contact@airsoftfix.com, or come by the store at 700 W. 41st Ave. Suite D in Anchorage, off of Arctic Blvd.
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby Cheese Man » Tue Nov 01, 2011 7:07 pm

HPA fills require a scuba tank and a fill valve that you can buy online for under 100 bucks. As for tanks, the Ninja tanks are what most people are using for the really high-end stuff. Just remember, though, you have up to 3000-4500 PSI in these things, you don't want them to break. Thrust to weight ratio is about 200:1. There are stories of them wrecking entire stores because the nozzle broke off.

I would also suggest buying/stocking air rigs, for the P*, you really only need a single regulator, and about 3-4 feet of hose. I would use the Palmer's pursuit regs fitted with a low pressure spring/bearing(?) set, and then you will need hose (6mm) rated for as high as you can find - I think 300 PSI is standard? And a few Q-D nozzles that slip-fit onto the hose wouldn't hurt, they are on McMaster Carr for fairly cheap in bulk.
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby Kyle » Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:11 pm

Update: AirsoftFix received its first shipment of PolarStar stuff late last week. Everything on the order was stuff that was pre-ordered by customers (and one for me, of course!) so we don't have any of it in stock. My fusion engine is at the shop if anyone wants to come check it out. I'll have the parts to build it up into a gun in a few weeks (before our indoor game, probably.)

We will be carrying Ninja HPA tanks. Right now I'm only ordering enough for the 4 of us that got stuff on this order, as well as hose rigs and regulators from Polarstar. After talking to Polarstar, the Palmer's low pressure stabilizers are not recommended because they do not recover fast enough on full auto/rapid semi fire. Polarstar recommends the ARX20 regulator, manufactured by SMC. It's an industrial regulator specifically built for the low pressures that we are running.

Polarstar also cautioned me about using just any air hose for these low-pressure setups. They said that most air line on the market for paintball is designed for much much higher pressures than the 80-120PSI we are running these Fusion Engines at. Because of this, most available air line has a very small inner diameter, relying on the intense pressure to carry the air. Polarstar is able to make their own rig out of a flexible nylon tubing (again, made for low-pressure industrial applications, adapted for this) and I will be getting that for the 4 of us as well.

Seeing as I already own a Palmer stabilizer, I will be conducting some tests on my own (and sharing them via Mechbox.com) to confirm these recommendations by Polarstar.

Impressions of the system:

The Fusion Engine mechbox itself is actually very light (made of aluminum, no big clunky gears or anything in there...) but very very VERY well-built. The only real quality issue I've had with the 2 Fusion Engines and 2 PR-15s that we got is that all the Tamiya plugs are "loose" somehow, and if you don't hold the battery plug with it just right, it cuts off the power. As far as I know, all of the guns will be switched to Deans/Mini Deans soon, so that won't even matter, but be prepared to lop off the Tamiya plug and put on something else when you get it.

The FCU (Fire Control Unit) is very tiny. It fits in pretty much any buffer tube or foregrip, and you can even fit it in the pistol grip, although you'll have to cut the main signal line short so you don't fill the whole grip with the slack. Installing the wires into the FCU is a pain in the ass! They used this funky push-fit terminal block on the FCU, where you're supposed to insert a tiny jeweler's screwdriver in the flat part and then push the wire into the round part, then pull the screwdriver out. I found that using the pointy end of a zip-tie (like the one provided with the FCU!) works very well, as you can jam it into the flat slot while you get the wire lined up. I've found that you have to get the wire in there juuust right so it will be bitten by the terminal when you pull the zip-tie tip out. I'm really wondering why they didn't go with a screw-down connection system like some MOSFETs use... If you like to tinker with your gun a lot and will be removing and reattaching the FCU frequently, you may want to figure out some alternative way to connect all of the wires, because re-attaching them sucks!

Changing the nozzle is not as easy as I thought, but sure beats fighting with AEG springs and stripped gears/etc. You have to unscrew the round hex-head screw at the front bottom of the mechbox, and then loosen the 90deg fitting right behind that with a flat-headed screwdriver. After that's done, you'll need to loosen the hex-head screw at the BACK of the mechbox, which will allow you to pivot the whole upper cylinder assembly off of the "mechbox" part of the system enough to unscrew the front of the cylinder, and access the nozzle. You may access the rear screw by either taking the whole system out of the receiver, or by removing your stock and receiver endplate on some receivers (such as the VFC bodies that are used on the PR-15s) and then loosening the screw with a short stubby 90deg wrench. Nick and myself will be drilling access holes in the lower curve of the rear receiver to allow access to that screw, because the holes will be covered by the backstraps on the MIAD grips on our guns.

I'm still waiting on tanks and rigs to come in, so none of us have been able to shoot our guns yet =( I don't anticipate any problems except for the fact that I will probably run out of air in my tank very quickly =D

I'll have a complete breakdown/starter guide video up on mechbox.com in a few weeks, hopefully this info helps some of you out!
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby Cheese Man » Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:28 pm

I have a rig and gas, if anyone wants to try theirs out... ;)

By the way, my palmers recovers just fine at 17ish rps, and rapid semi fire. However, it is a dual-regulated setup, so that probably helps some.
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby Kyle » Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:55 pm

Yeah the Polarstar guy said that the older stabilizers were fine, but the newer ones had too large of a piston surface area causing slow reaction time. If you have something in line after the stabilizer, then it would run just fine.

Polarstar is saying with the ARX20, you can go Ninja tank w/ 300PSI reg -> ARX20 -> gun, which I like.

You should totally come by the shop again with your tank/reg... Nick is back here Wednesday this week and his gun is here too =D
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby Cheese Man » Mon Jan 02, 2012 5:16 pm

I have school... When do you close today? I might be able to stop by...
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby Cheese Man » Tue Jan 03, 2012 7:54 pm

Those things rock! 26 rps on the stock settings, at ~100 PSI. FPS leaves something to be desired, but that may have been a chrono issue...
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Re: Polarstar Fusion Engine

Postby AndrewMc » Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:37 pm

So excited to pick mine up this week.
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